Saturday, October 17, 2009

Coq Au Vin My Style, Not Exactly...

Here is a photo essay ofhis wonderful dish in order of preparation. The actual recipe and How-to follows.

























Well really it's Bay Wolf's (Michael Wild) cook book that turned me on to this amazing dish seen and done thru far more experienced and knowledgeable eyes and taste buds than mine. I twist it a bit as I never seem to be able to duplicate the recipe as it is not to be found online when I search Bay Wolf or any of the popular recipe sites. So I do it as I remember from the first time I did the dish from his fine cookbook. The cookbook is chock full of gems from his restaurant and while not the easiest recipes on earth they yield fantastic flavors and deliciousness. Today I will give a go to outlining Michael's recipe done as I do it...Here goes!

To DO the dish you will need the following ingredients.

Chicken Stock...make your own in the morning (or days ahead and refrigerate) as it will be fresh and delicious and hot which helps this lengthy process shorter. I use the bones and scraps left from a roasted chicken along with the neck and feet(very French!), two whole yellow onions quartered w/o skins, 2 stalks celery chopped coarsely, 4 large carrots chopped coarsely, 6 cloves garlic crushed, 2 large tomatoes quartered. Add water (three quarts) to cover the chicken and vegies. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 4 - 5 hours. Strain your new stock thru a collander or cheesecloth or linen and you have a stock suitable for soups, porridges, or in this case Coq Au Vin Michael Wild Style!

Butter, unsalted is best, 4 oz / 125 gm
Melt the butter until it foams in a large pan or skillet, a covered iron pot is best but use whatever you have.

Mushrooms, 1.5 Lbs or 750gms of Paris Mushrooms or button mushrooms, the smaller the better. Add to the skillet with the melted butter. Toss and reduce to a medium flame.
Now here's the story on the beauty of this dish and why it is so tantalizingly delicious...carmelization...everything gets caramelized by a lengthy and brave application to the mushrooms (among others) that results in intense browning and deepening color (akin to black) when this is properly done. Proceed carefully and slowly, do not burn anything, just stir occasionally to move the mushrooms to a new position and continue to cook them. How long you might ask...depends on the frying pan, the heat and your patience. 45 minutes is a certain guess but so is one hour or longer. The darker the better. Add 6 minced cloves of garlic to the mushrooms and put aside to rest while we get on with the next scene in this many act play.

Onions, we call them Pearl Onions but they are larger than any pearl I've ever seen.
1" or so in diameter, white are most common, quite potent in their oniony way so a substitute for those of you who do not have access to said onion type...shallots perhaps? A large yellow onion (sweeter) cut into large dice might just do the trick.
In any case boil them in a quart (liter) of unsalted water, how long? 3 minutes will do. Allow to cool then off both ends a bit and peel. Now saute these in another large lump of butter, two tablespoons will do I suppose though a little more doesn't hurt either, except your waist! Keep the flame down low and slowly saute these babies until they are evenly browned all over, another 45 minutes of patience is required, maybe a bit longer but not much shorter else you burn the beauties. Finished with them? Set aside with their friends the well caramelized mushrooms.

Now, rinse the chicken pieces, I like thighs (more flavor) and wings (handy with their built-in handles, pat dry and trim off any extra skin or fat leaving most intact. Lightly salt with fine salt. Pepper at this point wouldn't hurt either. Good. Figure two pieces per person of this very rich and filling dish.
4 slices of smoked Bacon (or salt pork cut into 1/2" cubes}, saute gently to release the fat into the skillet. Allow the brown bits (fond) to build as they will anyway.
When nicely cooked but NOT crisp begin frying your chicken skin side down on the thighs and similarly on the legs. Turn periodically so you do not overcook, you want the skin crispy and the dear departed chicken moist and tenderly delicious, not tough and chewy! No jerky here! Cook ONLY until the skin is browned and crisp on all pieces. Do a few pieces at a time to keep from steaming the chicken...we'll do a bit of that later on. All the ckicken to cool on paper towels to remove excess oil and fat. Next act!

Now go back to those mushrooms, add the onions and fold together into one lovely bumpy dark and delicious mixture. Lightly salt and pepper them. Now add two cups of your fresh stock, then add two cups of a lovely, likeable and thoroughly drinkable red wine. Add 4 Tablespoons of chopped fresh parsley or 2 tablespoons of dried. Turn on the burner to medium intensity and bring the mixture to a boil, stir gently. Turn it down to a simmer, leave the lid off (if you have a lid) and watch the magic as it develops. T%aste frequently and DO NOT add more salt or pepper until you add the chicken and that won't happen for some time...perhaps 90 minutes or so. After the liquid has reduced to just enough remaining to cover the mushrooms and onions (about a 50% reduction) add the chicken to the top of the layered mixture with the skin side up. Pour enough additional wine to 1/2 cover the chicken (important)...leave the skin exposed to the air, only the meaty side is down, the skin side is up. Place in a 350 degree oven for 45 minutes to finish cooking the chicken interior and check the thigh with an instant read thermometer (if you have one) to insure it is 160 - 180 degrees. It should nearly fall off of the bone at this stage. Taste the sauce and season again IF necessary! Do NOT over salt! Do NOT OVER SALT!

Serve over noodles of your choice, tagliatelle or ziti, even large shells will do. Would work also with Basmati Rice (about a cup). Alternately serve over garlic mashed potatoes or with small boiled red potatoes and carrots (my personal favorite!). You could finish them off with 30 minutes in the braising liquid of the dish itself if it suits you.

There you have it! Coq Au Vin OUR style!

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Stormy Weather with Bison


An Adult Bison


Well the FIRST big Pacific storm of the wineter weather season is upon us. Windy as all get out...to 55mph acording to the Travis AFB weather station data. Not so bad here in the edge of Suisun as the storm is coming in from the south andthat means we are protected somewhat by the rest of the trees and homes to our south. Nonetheless Vern's good ship "KoOlina" was tied loosely as is our habit hereabouts but this wind was energetic enough to push her sideways into the other neighbor's boat. I ran out and took in the slack on the dock lines to pull her in a bit closer and away from the neighbors and all seems well now except I am soaking wet. Ah well...they'd do it for me if Zulu was in a like situation. That's what neighbors are for...that and drinks.

I'm baking this rainy, stormy afternoon...some hamburger buns as Kelly wants a hamburger, the American fix. I might even do some double fried french fries (Belgian Fries really!) to go along with them. AND the beast is not just boring hamburger..it's BISON! Beautiful bison is available these days, quite lean so don't use it if you like your burgers well done...they will NOT be a tender, juicy morsel if they are well done. Some bacon fat mixed in (about 15%) would help the problem.