Saturday, June 30, 2012

About Stock...NOT about Wall Street

Stock is the basis for many, many soups, rice, and pasta dishes as well as braising liquids etc. that it should be a constant prescence in your kitchen.  Stock should always be made with fresh vegetables not old or overly ripe ones.  Bird (no BBQ!), pork, beef bones add additional thickness (collegen/gelatin) and certain richness to your finished stock.  Stock can be made in small quantities in an emergency but I like making several quarts and freezing it for long term storage.  A large 1.5 - 2 gallon ( 6 - 8 quart/liter ) pot designed for the purpose is an excellent tool. They can be stainless steel, aluminum or enameled steel and may or may not have a lift out sieve section for easy removal of the used bones and/or vegetables.  For a complete explanation of the ingredients and methods try this link:  http://culinaryarts.about.com/od/stocks/p/stockcomponents.htm 

Always start with cold water.

4 quarts cold tap water.
2 - 4 carrots roughly chopped large
2 - 4 Onions skinned and quartered
4 - Roughly chopped Celery stalks and leaves
1-  Bouquet Garni, ie: rosemary, thyme, sage bound into a small parcel.
Carcass and Bones of one roasted or fried chicken

Heat to a boil and reduce heat to a bare simmer, 3 - 5 hours.  Remove vegetables and bones,
Reduce to half.  Yeild should be 1 - 2 quarts of stock.

So today for dinner I'm faking a Mexican meal with the few ingredients I can come upo with from the Larder-of-Gold, dried California Chiles, Mexican Oregano, Cumin (ground) with garlic, onion and sauted Red and Yellow Bell Peppers.  To this mix in a small Dutch oven went 4 cups of Chicken Stock hot out of the stock pot.  In another small casserole went a cup of dried black beans and 2 cups of the same stock.  The Pork Roti (Roast tied round) was browned in Duck Fat from the duck we ate 3 days ago as dinner (I always save bacon and duck fat for just such a purpose) then inserted in the smaller casserole and the sauted vegies poured over the top.  Onto the Hob it went to cook for the next 3 hours, turning each hour.  The beans will take a similar time in my experience.  Soaking overnight helps but it still takes a long time to cook them thoroughly in the Mexican style.
Once cooked the Pork Roti will be pulled apart into chunks and browned in the oven.  Then flour tortilla will hold the sauted vegies, pulled pork and a reduction of the braising liquid as a dinner fajita-like meal.  The beans are a side attraction and alas there is no sour cream in France, only Creme Fraise (Creme Fresh) to add to the beans.  Too bad for us, it's pretty close and still delicious!




Monday, June 25, 2012

Risotto with Love!

We love Risotto, the version made with any but Arborio rice is not what I am talking about.  You must make it with good quality unbroken Arborio Rice, preferably Italian grown and packaged in the wonderful vacuum bricks they do to keep it fresh while it's sitting on a store shelf or being transported around the globe.  A long sentence I know but indicative of exactly what I want you to use.  Accept no substitutes. 

Then there is the ISSUE of water vs stock...water is fine, tends to taste of the ingredients more and is easy to come by, stock is a more complex liquid, either vegetable or chicken or...pork or veal bones.  Beef stock is too strong for me, try it if you must. 

It can be a side dish to a meat or other vegetable meal like Eggplant Parmesan or Lamb Chops, Veal Scallopini etc.  Here I'm directing you to make a meal of risotto, especially if this is either your first time trying this delicious stuff or this is yet another attempt and making the Rice of Love after previous failures.  Here goes:

Ingredients:
1 Medium yellow or white ONION.  Small dice please.
2 Tablespoons BUTTER or margarine or olive oil.
6 cups Hot water or STOCK (chicken, pork or veal, or vegetable)
1 cup ARBORIO RICE
1 cup finely shaved Parmesan cheese.
salt to taste.

Method:

Total Time: 1 Hr.

Heat Butter, margarine or olive oil on low heat in a medium not stick skillet.
Dice the onion and add to the skillet, saute for 2-3 minutes.
Add 1 cup of Arborio Rice and stir.
Saute the rice, onion mixture until the onion is translucent and the rice has been tinged light brown.
Add Hot Stock or water 1 cup at a time and stir. 
Allow to sit until rice has absorbed much of the liquid then add another cup of stock or water and stir.
Repeat until the rice is thoroughly cooked and is barely al dente about 30 - 35 minutes.  Then lastly salt to taste.

Consistency is up to you, I like mine somewhat lose and soupy, others like it heavier and thicker...just cook until your desired doneness is achieved.  Turn off and remove it from the stove top and serve in shallow bowls, sprinkle small amounts of Parmesan over the top.  Enjoy with a nice chilled white wine.
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Flavorful additions...cook in separate pan some sauteed mushrooms, add to finished risotto and serve.
Asparagus tips are good, bacon is a favorite, thinly sliced salami or prosciutto, fresh peas.  You get the idea.  Have fun with it, don't over season!